THERE are a zillion sweet whites out there and most of them are at least quite good but this Brown Brothers 2006 Botrytis Riesling is mellowing beautifully into a classic example of how an Australian botrytis sweet white that should be drank now.
Brown Brothers only produce wines under this label in the best years, and this is the follow up to the 2002 vintage release.
The family believe this wine is its best Botrytis Riesling since the mid to late 1990s.
This is balanced, round, complete and complex. The balanced and sweet mid palate lusciousness is balanced perfectly by the cleansing and dry finish.
The winery tasting notes use descriptors such as “stewed apricots, butterscotch, honey, orange marmalade and citrus”.
It may be difficult to put together a more succinct summary of the flavours in this mellow and complete wine or for any semi-mature Sauternes style.
When you add the middle aged, balanced, round and seamless textures to those lightly unctuous flavours, it is difficult to imagine that there could be a more satisfying mature Australian botrytis desert wine on the market.
There is nothing over the top about this relaxing and satisfying wine style that could be drank on its own or matched with fruit, lime or lemon influenced deserts or perhaps even crème brulee towards the end of a memorable meal.
There may be wines of greater finesse, there may be wines of greater length and there may be sweet wines of greater class out there but the show judges appear to agree with us on this one.
With its five gold medals and three trophies, of all the sweet whites out there this is one of the very few truly marvellous and satisfying current drinking examples.
This will drink wonderfully until 2011-2012 and then gradually gain greater aged complexity as its freshness begins to fade. Drink it by then.
In summary, if you are looking for a Botrytis desert wine style in a 375ml bottle and purchased either a bottle of the De Bortoli Deen Vat 5 at $14 or this wine at $35, you would be thrilled with your guest’s reactions.
18.5 points and RRP $35
Xanadu Dragon Shiraz 2007
The Xanadu Dragon Shiraz 2007, as with the outstanding 2006 release, is among the very best value for money in the $16 Shiraz range.
Since Xanadu was purchased by the Rathbone Wine Group, which also owns Yering Station, Mount Langi Ghiran and The Parker First Growth Estate in Coonawarra, they have increased quality at the expense of volume.
They have also reduced prices in every category to make themselves more competitive and are consistently winning gold and silver medals across the national wine show circuit for each of their Chardonnay, Cabernet and Cabernet blends and Shiraz ranges.
Every wine in their line up has been carefully chosen to be of outstanding quality for its price point.
The 2006 release was among the very best $16 Shiraz in the country, and the Cabernet Merlot wasn’t far behind. The Chardonnays in the price-fighting $16 Dragon range and $25 Xanadu range are also among the very best and gained gold.
These guys are now winning gold medals around the country for wines that are regularly a half or a third of the price of those that they are competing against.
Among the dozen or so gold medals picked up by Xanadu in the past 12 months, this wine has won gold medals at the Royal Sydney Wine Show earlier this year and Royal Adelaide last year.
To show consistency, it also won silver at the Qantas Wine Show of WA in 2008.
Not bad for a $16 wine that can be had on special for as low as $13.
This wine has modern, soft and young Shiraz fruit that is much leaner and fresher than the traditional big, ripe and juicy Barossa styles and it is this new Margaret River style’s leanness, freshness and complexity that would appear to be making it more appealing to both the show judges and the consumers.
It also has bright, vibrant and likeable plum flavours that are all in balance. This is a delicious mouthful of exciting wine for this price range.
17pts and RRP $16